Application and Trim

Natural Balance Trim

David Fryer with years of studying numerous trim techniques has devised his own conservative trim. As David puts it, he allows the hoof to tell him what it needs. We do not intend to endorse or contradict any particular trimming method but simply draw on David’s years of experience with all breeds and disciplines.
Hoof Armor along with the natural balance trim allows your horse to transition to barefoot without wasting valuable riding time. Each horse is different and will progress individually. Our goal is to help the equine hoof to become as strong and healthy as nature intended it to be. domesticated the spirited equine so there will be a transition to get them back to their natural roots.

By allowing as much sole as the hoof will allow, to help support the weight of the horse, you are eliminating numerous health issues. A thick sole is also your key to stone protection. Each individual horse will determine how long it will take to achieve that goal. Factors include conditions or damage that already exists, trimming frequency, how long in metal shoes and a host of other variables. We are very conscious of conditioning our horses for events, trail riding etc., why would we not take in to consideration the conditioning of their hooves. We have domesticated the spirited equine so there will be a transition to get them back to their natural roots.

For more information on David’s trim techniques please see our DVD for detailed instruction. Hoof Armor Natural Trim DVD

Hoof Armor Application Sequence

This is an example of typical growth of a hoof after two previous applications of Hoof Armor:

Any type of trim can be done including natural rollovers, mustang roll, etc. The preferred trim; the HoofArmor Trimming Technique, is available on DVD. Paring the sole is not recommended.

The hoof should be freshly rasped, sanded or wire brushed:

Denatured alcohol (available at any hardware store paint department) should be applied to remove moisture and oils from the hoof:

The hoof should be dried and warmed with a variable heat gun (set not higher than 250 degrees and held at least 8" away) or hair dryer:

Lift the silver lever to install the 1:1 bayonet from the front; ratchet side down. To stop the flow of HoofArmor in the dispenser, push up on the silver lever underneath and pull back the bayonet:

Apply a THIN bead of HoofArmor to the hoof wall. HoofArmor can be applied to the sole for immediate protection and to grow thicker sole for future stone protection:

A spatula is included in the kit to spread the HoofArmor to the desired thickness. Only a thin coating is required:

A variable heat gun or hair dryer should be used to cure the HoofArmor. Gel time is 30 seconds to 1 minute depending on heat source. Regular heat guns, (available at any hardware store paint department) at 700 degrees F are very hot and should be held at least 8" away from the hoof. Set your heat gun to not more than 250 degrees F for curing. Rule of thumb: if it's too hot for your hand holding the hoof, it's too hot for a HoofArmor cure.

As a precaution, if the HoofArmor is not completely dry to the touch, it is recommended to avoid concrete or rubber mats with a HoofArmored hoof for at least one hour if possible.

Tips on Use:

-Use denatured alcohol to remove moisture and oils from hoof. Acetone leaves a film. Do not put iodine products, hoof oils and dressings on application surface.

-Warm and dry hoof before applying. You can use a heat gun or hair dryer. Cure temperature is around 200 degrees F. Should cure in 30 seconds to a minute of heat.

-As I've always had trouble keeping from using my hands, 'I've been wearing a pair of goatskin gloves and found that using my gloved finger to rub the HoofArmor into the sole gives me the right thickness and cures quicker.

-If the horse will not stand long enough, a dusting of talc or similar powder on uncured base will prevent adhesion loss. Also, hoof can be put down in sand or soft dirt. This will adhere to outside of coating, but HoofArmor will still adhere to hoof and dirt will wear off.

-If the HoofArmor did not get completely dry to the touch, avoid coated hoof from contact with concrete, rubber, or other hard surface for 1 hour.

-If desired or necessary, due to riding or surface conditions, additional coatings can be applied after simply wiping the base coat with water or alcohol, drying and reapplying.

Troubleshooting:

Problem 1: The HoofArmor sets up slowly or stays tacky.

Maybe:

-The heat gun is too cool: the ideal temperature is 250 degrees F. A good hair dryer is around 180 degrees and will take substantially longer.

-The heat gun is too hot or too close: a non-variable heat gun is generally around 500 to 700 degrees F and must be held about 6" from the surface. If this is held too close, the HoofArmor will cure, but the surface will remain tacky.

Problem 2: The HoofArmor peels off.

Maybe:

-The surface was not properly prepared: HoofArmor will stick to whatever it is applied to - loose soil, dust or dirt. Wire brush the surface, wash with alcohol, spray and repeat.

-Also, I've found that trying to apply too thick a coating of HoofArmor will peel. As HoofArmor is embedded into the top layer of the sole, HoofArmor only needs to be applied in a very thin coating.

Problem 3: The HoofArmor does not appear to be on anymore.

Maybe:

-HoofArmor is a thin, clear coating that may not appear shiny after awhile, particularly if it has been abraded from dirt and sand. However, as the HoofArmor is embedded in the sole, it should still be protecting. If the surface is wetted, it should appear shinier than a normal hoof, showing that the HoofArmor is still on.

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